Porsche 718 Boxster


There are many great Porsche 911s, so it was time to try a Boxster.

Instructions are available at Rebrickable.com.

Like many car enthusiasts, I am love any Porsche. I have made my fair share of 911s, which is right of passage for LEGO car designers. But at some point, I looked around and did not find any Boxsters. So it was time to design one.

I had been playing around with some boxer engines for years, and I was finally able to come up with a design that I liked for this scale. The little axle based engine that has worked well for many smaller Technic builds is a great, and versatile design. It’s a little tall for small scale builds, but generally works well and is great to watch in these smaller cars. But it works because of gravity, so a flat engine design does not work. I tried ways to connect the axle pistons, but then the engine got so wide it would not work in this size car. Finally, after a number of drafts, and way too many months, a little design started to take shape. Built around a cam based crankshaft, pistons are mounted on a Technic connector and swing in and out to represent the engine. It is not a true flat engine, but it works smoothly, looks the part, and fits these small cars well.

Once the engine was done, building the car around it was rather fun. I worked on the doors and side of the car next, and it was at this point, I decided on the Lime color. Adding the fenders and rear deck came next, then I had to pause to build the roof. It took some time, and a number of drafts, but I finally came up with a simple roof design that would fold into the rear of the car. The roof was not too stable when up, so I use a HOG extension in the middle of the roof to give it a little support.

The car turned out to be a great little testbed for another engine design. I am pleased with how it works, and will be an idea I use in another build. The front bumper could be a little more rounded, but maybe I will update that on a future Cayman or something.

Happy building.

AWD E-Hatch


Another small car, but this time an EV with AWD!

Free Instructions may be found at Rebrickable.com.

I have been enjoying the small LEGO car theme that has been growing ever since the release of LEGO set 42098. Not only was it a well designed set, it opened up the 15 stud wide car theme which has been going strong ever since. I have enjoyed many builds by a lot of other designers, and I have had a lot of fun with many of my own builds.

I was tinkering with some ideas recently on a fake electric drive for this scale, and through this tinkering I found another idea that would work well for a front steering axle. Applying a fake motor to the rear axle was simple enough as the differential could drive an electric motor directly. But for the front, I removed the differential, but still used the gear to drive a fake motor. Using a CV joint on each side on which to mount the wheel would allow for the steering to work. The steering knuckle pivots are out of line of the CV joint pivot, but since the CV joint allows for frictionless movement of an axle, it allowed for a the center axle to flex a little bit during the steering movement. The center axle is mounted on a pivot that manages the movement.

The system works well, and means the front fake electric motors is always turning when the car is moving. The steering gets a little gummy at full lock as the front axle would be better with a differential, but the idea works well enough.

Adding in a HOG was simple enough, and I had enough space to add a connection to the front steering wheel. I wanted to try a different interior setup with seating for three, so this worked well with the center steering. Also, I complicated things just a little bit on the front axle, by having the axle a half stud lower than the rear to give the car a leaning forward look.

Finally, I worked on the bodywork to give an updated look to the classic rally hatchback from yesteryear. The comically large wing, and the large side intakes harken to the Renault Turbo 5 and the more recent R5 Turbo 3E.

I have enjoyed building in this scale, and it will not be the last time I do so. It was fun to try another feature for this scale, and I think with a little more work, the front axle will be perfect. I love the design on the car as the black, red, and dark azure look great with the proportions and bodywork. I hope you enjoy too.

Happy building!

Mini 8063


Another build that harkens to an older set, and this time for a contest.

Free instructions may be found at Rebrickable.com.

I participate in a number of Technic build contests at Eurobricks.com, the TC25 contest was another one that I was excited to join. This contest asked you to rebuild a Technic set, but smaller. After selecting a couple of sets for my shortlist to explore, I went though each to determine what I had parts for, what interesting features I could keep or add, and what I would be motivated to finish. Through this process, I decided on LEGO set 8063 from 2009. After numerous tractors for the Thirdwigg Farm, I decided I would be well suited to update this tractor.

I stared with the trailer, and added suspension for the rear axles. The tipping of the bed uses a linkage so the little mini linear actuator can use its full movement to tip the bed. The control for the tipper is on the left of the hitch. A simple rear tailgate and trailer hitch support is included as well.

The tractor is similar to my other designs in that there is steering, an engine, and a rear PTO. But this tractor also included front suspension as 8063 does. To make this work, I used small 1/2 pins with a yellow round tile on the top for pistons, and ran the steering axle below the engine. The front axle is mounted on a pivot to allow for the pendular suspension. Steering is controlled by a HOG on the cabin roof. A rear PTO was added, and a three point hitch using the Thirdwigg Farm standard.

I always love building tractors, and this scale is my favorite. I would have rather used the newer tractor tires for this MOC, but it did not match the feel of 8063, so the balloon tires were used instead. All the functions worked well, and it was nice to include all the functions of the original 8063 as well. And the red and green compliment each other so well on this build. I hope you enjoyed another little tractor until I build another one.

Happy Building.

42154 Porsche 911


Like so many other builders, I have found joy in building alternative models.

You may find instruction at Rebrickable.com.

The alternative build is becoming a popular theme in the current LEGO culture, and LEGO Technic is no different. Many people buy a set or two, and look for ideas what to make with the sets they have purchased. Rebrickable has made this even easier. Certainly I would like to share some of my creativity with them, but I also like the challenge of trying to design a creation with a limited amount of parts. I have built a couple of alternative builds now, so I wanted to try something a little bigger. LEGO set 42154 is a good size, has a lot of fun parts, and has a beautiful dark blue color. I love any Porsche, so I stared with a 911.

When I do an alternative build, I start with the big parts first: namely where do the panels go. For 42154 this meant I started with the fenders, the door panels, and the transparent panels. After a quick draft, I knew I would be able to get the general shape of the 911 right.

Then I worked on the interior. The car would keep a four wheel independent suspension setup with steering at the front. A flat 6 engine was mounted at the rear with drive connected through a differential between the rear wheels. I was able to keep the HOG steering link on top of the roof. Two seats are include, but no jump seats.

It took some time working on all the remaining parts. 42154 does not have many liftarms, so I had to design and redesign what parts are used where a couple of times. At the end, I had a lot of parts leftover, so I was able to make two rear end designs: a rear wing, and a little duckbill spoiler (my favorite 911 look). Both are easily interchangeable.

I was pleased to have finished another alternative build. They are hard for me to complete, but a good exercise in working with constraints. I like the way this one turned out, as I like the stance and the proportions of the design. The size is right for my desk, and the dark blue looks great in LEGO. Plus any 911 is a good 911 in my mind.

Until next time, happy building.

BMW E30


Who doesn’t like a BWM sedan?

Instructions are available for free at Rebrickable.com.

I go through stages of inspiration like so many other builders, and sometimes when I idea is working, you just need to follow where it leads. I had the idea to do a little 15 module wide sedan, and after a simple little draft looked like a boxy, old sedan, I decided to embrace that direction. From there I determined, with a little bit of effort, I could turn this little sedan into a trio of MOCs.

Like many a car enthusiast, I have a soft spot for BMW sports sedans of the past. The E30 translates to LEGO well as that generation 3 Series is a little bit boxy, and has some great fender flairs. I started with a sedan in Red, and the project expanded quickly. As suggested by LEGO set 42138 Shelbey GT500 Mustang, I was convinced that every 15 wide car going forward should have a half stud front axle drop to give the car a little forward leaning stance. I was able to develop a steering system that would work well for this, which would also give space for an engine. I used the standard axle based V-8 for the sedan, and gave it a spoiler that was just a little too big.

I loved the car so much, I couldn’t stop! I started making a lime version, and then I saw a Touring in my neighborhood, and decided this version would be a wagon. In lime! Then with a little more tinkering, I was able to change the V-8 for a Straight 6, like all perfect cars have. (Don’t tell your friends, but only 5 of the 6 pistons move) The chassis of the sedan and the wagon are the same.

Finally, as BMW Motorsports has an iconic livery, I decided a racing version would be complete the group. This car is mostly the same, but the wheelbase is 1 module shorter, and features the I6 engine. And BWM racing colors. I added a little roll cage, and white wheels and took out a door.

This build is a fan favorite. When I presented these at a local show, many people came up and wanted to talk about the BWMs. They are simple, playable, highly robust, and visually interesting. I loved this build, and will be doing more cars at this scale. They are a lot of fun. Until next time,

Happy Building!

Hybrid Garbage Truck


I had on my goals to complete another Garbage Truck for while. Now it is finally completed.

Instructions are available at Rebrickable.com.

I like trucks, and I like building them. Garbage trucks are the most interested to me. Not only do they look interesting to my eyes, but mechanically they have a lot going on inside of them. Naturally, recreating this out of LEGO fits well with the type of building I enjoy. When I started on this project, I settled on a couple of standards. First, it would be 1:21 scale, second, it would be manually functioned, and finally, it would be a rear loader.

I worked on this model differently than I normally do. Generally I design a crude frame, and place all the mechanical aspects on this frame, and slowly build out the rest of model until it is done. On the garbage truck, I worked on three sections on the build in tandem: the chassis, the body, and the compactor.

The compactor started first, and was the hardest to get right. I settled on a function that is controlled by one gear on the left of the truck. The gear moves the compactor door mount, and an interval resistance gear allows for movement of the compactor plate. The one gear controls the two movements. So when trash is added to the hopper, moving the gear extends the door down, pivots the plate, moves the door up, and then pivots the plate open again.

The body was started soon, and would need to work hand in hand with both the compactor and the chassis. The body would house both the extractor plate to push trash out of the truck, and the mechanism to pivot the compactor up to open. These two functions were simple to design, but what took the most time was making sure the body was strong to support the functions and the rear compactor, and to be smooth internally to make sure trash would not get stuck.

The chassis followed a more common building process. I started with the hardpoints like the wheelbase, length and engine placement, and slowly added in all the other parts needed. Right from the beginning I decided on a three axle chassis with axle 1 and axle 3 steering. Axle 2 would be the drive axle. As I built, it was clear there was a lot of extra space in the chassis. I added a little hybrid/EV drive to fill the space. The torque from the drive axle routes through a center differential that splits the torque between a fake electric motor and a fake piston engine. A resistance plate is added to the front of the piston engine so the torque will always start with the electric motor. When the speed increases, the torque will overwhelm the resistance plate and start using the fake piston engine too. It works just like a real hybrid engine. A selector is on the left side of the truck to select EV only where only the electric motors is used, or to select hybrid where both are used.

The truck and body are easily connected by four pins at the corner of the body. The cab tilts to make it easy to work on the engine. Finally, I created two small dumpsters for to hold trash. A small one and a larger one, and each fits with on the rear of the truck.

This ended up being one of my favorite models since the Ionos. The truck looks great, but packs lots of functional elements. The hybrid function works great and will be used again for another project. When I presented it at a show people could not get enough of watching the trash get cycled through the compactor. I always enjoy building a garbage truck, and I look forward to the next one I make.

Happy building.

Vintage Tractor


The Thirdwigg Farm now has a lot of builds, and this one was found in the back of an old barn.

Free Instructions may be found at Rebrickable.com

I tend to find new and flashy machines the most interesting, but sometimes something older can excite my creative juices. Someone suggested I build an old tractor, so this is the result. As I planned this build, it became clear that I wanted it to be part of the Thirdwigg Farm scale, so that determined the scale and some of the features right away. The Vintage tractor can be used with all the other Thirdwigg Farm builds.

I worked on the driveline which came together pretty quickly. The two cylinder engine is directly linked to the rear wheels. The steering was a little trickier. I mounted a little steering wheel on a linear actuator block, which moves a steering link to move the front steering rack. It is relatively simple, but coming up with how to make it work and look alright took a little bit of time. The seat is mounted on a pivot that allows for small suspension travel, just like an older tractor.

A little more time was spent on the bodywork. The round macaroni bricks work perfectly for the grill, and the new little panels cover the engine well. The fenders are a little fragile, but look great for the tires used.

This was a fun little build that has been well loved at shows and in my office. It turns out that an old looking tractor is something that generates some interest.

Until the next tractor, happy building.

Unimog U423


For my 100th Rebrickable MOC I had to celebrate with a Unimog.

Free Instructions can be found at Rebrickable.com.

So it turns out that I have built a lot of MOCs over the years, and many of them have instructions posted on Rebrickable. Late last year, I recognized I was going to post my 100th MOC on Rebrickable, so I wanted to celebrate the occasion in some meaningful way. After a little thought, it became clear that building another Unimog was the only way to celebrate!

I have build a number of Unimogs over the years, but if one thing has happened during this time, it is the consolidation of the 1:21 scale truck that has become a standard in the LEGO MOC community. LEGO sets like 42098, 42078, and 42128 have helped to standardize the 1:21 scale truck, and many other MOCs have followed suit. Building a Unimog in this scale seemed like a good idea.

I planned right from the beginning that multiple implements would be available for the truck, so the design would need to be able to accommodate each attachment. To support this, a front, rear, and center PTO would be needed, and mounting points on the front, rear, and bed would need to be easily accessible. Once these standards were set, I measured the scale, and made a draft with all the set points fixed. As I built, the steering was finalized as well as the 2 cylinder fake engine. The truck used a rear wheel drive setup, and the rear axle has portal axles and a pendular suspension. Right above the rear axle, I placed a linear actuator to move the tipping bed. After some tinkering, I decided to use a large 36z gear on the left of the truck to move the bed up and down. It is placed just behind the steps, and looks like the left side radiator. Finally, there is a PTO on/off switch on the right of the truck that turns the rear and center PTO on and off.

As I was building the truck, I built the attachments as well, which allowed me to make sure the attachment connection points were ridged, accessible, and standardized. From the beginning I planned on the following attachments: plow, gritter, front winch, rear crane, and bed crane. The front attachments are connected using a 5l axle with stop, and the bed mounts are connected using four 3l axles with stop.

The front plow has worm gear lift and can tilt left and right. Free instructions for the plow may be found here. The rear gritter attaches at the rear and connects to the center PTO gear. When the PTO is turned on, the center auger and the rear spreader both turn. The top of the gritter can open to drop small 1×1 round plates to use as salt. Free instructions for the gritter may be found here.

The front winch and center crane and bed can be easily attached as well. The front winch has a locking mechanism that allows the winch to be locked as needed. The rear bed has a knuckleboom crane that folds up for transportation. Instructions may be found for both here.

Finally, a rear knuckleboom crane is also available. This crane uses the same crane as above, but uses a different attachment point. A small interior cam mechanism that is worm driven is used to connect the rear crane to the truck. Two outriggers are on both sides of the crane and are locked by worm gears as well. The crane folds completely and extends as needed. Again, free instructions for the crane can be found here.

Maybe I will find additional attachments, trailers, and implements for the truck but for now I am done. This project worked just a well as I had hoped and was perfect for my 100th MOC. The truck is just the right size, and has all the features I wanted it to have. The functions work well and integrate with each other well. Each attachment was great addition as well, and gave the truck lots of distinctive styles and looks. I hope you enjoyed the build as well.

Happy building!

Off Road Knuckleboom Truck


It was time for another truck! Free instructions can be found at Rebrickable.

I have been building a lot of tractors and construction vehicles lately. I love building them as they offer a lot of movement and features. But it was time to build another truck. LEGO truck MOCs are beginning to coalesce around the “Mack Anthem standard” which is a 15 module wide truck in about 1:20 scale. Many MOCs are being designed in this scale as it is a good playable size, and fits the scale of some of the more recent LEGO trucks that have been released. I wanted to offer another truck in this scale, with some fun playable features.

I started with a chassis that uses a simple pendular suspension on the rear axle, which is damped by 2×1 rubber connectors. The rear axle drives a simple I3 fake engine under the cab through a two speed transmission. The transmission changeover is on the right side of the truck. Front steering is controlled though the HOG light on the top of the cab.

I have found a simple way to add a three way tipper bed in my trucks, and I have used it many times before. A mini linear actuator moves simple linkage under the bed that can pivot in three different directions. Each corner of the bed has a removable axle that allows control for which way the bed tiles. But in the past the control for this tipping function was in a tricky place to reach, so I wanted to route the control to the top of the cab. I managed to add this right next to steering light. I used a top pivot design on the bed sides and rear, locked by a 3/4 pin on the bottom.

Finally, I added a crane, and since I had a little space left over, two stabilizing outriggers. The outriggers are a simple two link design that are controlled with a worm gear mechanism. The crane is a little more complicated. It is mounted on a small turntable with a rotation control on the left side of the truck. The first lift mini linear actuator is controlled by the third HOG on the top of the cab. The second lift stage is controlled by another mini linear actuator. Finally, the third stage has an extending boom that allows the reach of the crane to extend a little more. The crane can lift some; not a lot, particularly when the boom is fully extended. By removing the three HOG knobs, the cab tips to show the engine. Also, both doors open.

I loved the way this trucks looks. The beefy tires, and the cabover design give the truck presence and look of toughness. The crane was a lot of fun to play with even if it could be a little stiffer. However, this may be the last time I use this three way tipper design. I am happy I moved the control to the top of the cab, but the linkage does not have the power it needs at the start of the tip. I will have to come up with something better for the next truck.

Stay tuned, and happy building until then.

End Loader


Time for another Eurobricks contest! Free Instructions are available at Rebrickable.com.

Another Eurobricks contest was made available, and this one was right up my alley. In fact, I was so excited about the contest, I made two MOCs. The contest was to create a small, less than 10,000 cubic stud, construction vehicle. I figured an end loader is perfect for the contest theme, and it was a while since I created one. I build a quick draft of the shape including where the steering, engine, and bucket would go.

At this scale I decided quickly that adding an engine would be a great feature, but four wheel drive would only distract from the look and the function of the bucket. The engine is a little 3 cylinder unit that is mounted transversally behind, and powered by, the rear axle. This placement allowed for steering and bucket tilting to be placed in a HOG placement.

Drive Mech

I next worked on the linkage for the bucket. It took a couple of tries, but I finally got a linkage with full movement. Two mini linear actuators are placed on the side of the loader for bucket lift, and are linked together. The manual control is a small gear on the left side. The bucket tilt uses a Z-linkage design that allows for the bucket to move correctly through the lift movement and not dump any load. This is controlled by a single mini linear actuator, with a controlling gear on the top of the engine cover. The head of the bucket allows for quick change between a bucket and forks. Finally, steering is controlled by the HOG on the top of the cabin, and keep my high standards for steering feel with low slop.

I was pleased with this little creation, but it was not as interesting as the other MOC that I designed. So while everything worked well, and looked great, I submitted the other MOC for the contest. I hope you enjoy the MOC, and feel free to build one of your own.

Happy Building!